HAVANA CENTRAL STATION (CUBA)

A monument to lives of toil, pride

Photos by Yomiuri Shimbun Photographer Yasuhiro Takami

By Hajime Someya

Yomiuri Shimbun Staff Writer

Havana Central Station is seen as a jewel by many in the Cuban capitol, and stands in stark contrast to the dilapidated Hotel Bila Kurara across the street.

But the hotel serves as a favorite hangout for station workers seeking a bit of rest and recuperation.

"The furniture is quite old and the rooms are cramped," said Katiska Leiba, unwinding from her day's work as a train crew in the hotel room her employer rents for her. "But it's like home. I feel relaxed when I'm in this room." Leiba spends an average of 24 nights a month in the hotel room, and the closet is stuffed with her clothes.

"The job's tough, but I'm proud to work for the national railway," the 36-year-old said.

But the trains often experience mechanical and electrical problems, meaning they often don't run on schedule.

U.S. economic sanctions are blamed for making it difficult for the railway to obtain spare parts. As a result, mechanics must repair faulty parts over and over to get the trains going again.

The national railway is Cuba's lifeline, running the length and breadth of the island.

"We all work very hard," station master Antonio Odio, 58, said.

Next to the hotel is a cafe for railroad retirees. Orester Martinez, 65, has visited almost every day since his retirement as a conductor about five years ago. He whiles away the hours drinking coffee and playing dominoes with his fellow retirees, whose conversation always gravitates to their days as railroad workers.

Martinez said, "Why do I come here every day? Because, being here, I know I can always be of help if something goes wrong at the station. I may be retired, but I can still use my experience to solve problems."