LIMOGES BENEDICTINS STATION (LIMOGES, FRANCE)

City of porcelain a potter's delight

Photos by Yomiuri Shimbun Photographer Koji Wada

By Tsutomu Nanbara

Yomiuri Shimbun Staff Writer

Many tourists to the midwestern French city of Limoges say they are overwhelmed by the imposing presence of the mosquelike white building of Limoges Benedictins Station.

Adorned with sculptures made of porcelain and cloisonne, the station is truly a gateway to this city of pottery.

The station was built in 1928, and is a 1,800-ton steel frame with limestone cladding. It stands on the hill overlooking the city.

The station has a 63-meter-high clock tower and a 31-meter-high central dome. Its copper roof's green patina contrasts impressively with the limestone walls.

"The most popular postcards of Limoges are those of this station," said Bruno Kapbul, 51, an official guide at the station.

His comments met with support from stationmaster Jean Paul Payer, 47, who said the building has been designated by the French government as one of the 20th century's most important cultural assets.

Limoges became a center of production for porcelain together with traditional cloisonne--a style of raised enamel decoration--in the late 18th century after a new kind of clay that contained kaolin, a raw material vital to making white porcelain, was discovered near the city.

The factory of porcelain manufacturer Limoges Haviland & Co. is a 20-minute drive from the station.

The company manufactures tableware for the Elysee Palace, the official residence of the French president.

At Haviland, craftsmen pour kaolin into molds, and attach handles and spouts to the main bodies of cups and teapots by hand.

After being glazed, each piece of tableware is heated to 1,400 C in a kiln until it turns translucent white.

Then the craftsmen inspect, touch and flick each piece to check for scratches or cracks.

Each piece is a work of art rather than just a piece of tableware, a Haviland spokesman said.

"Haviland ware is pretty and elegant," said Marine Mare as she got off a train at the station.

Mare, 50, who works for an insurance company, said she cherished a Haviland dinner set, a gift from her parents given many years ago.