Once-isolated town preserves history

Echoes of Kyoto By Shinobu Miwa

Situated in southern Kumamoto Prefecture, the once thriving castle town of Hitoyoshi is often called the "Little Kyoto of the Kyushu region."

Hitoyoshi was governed by the Sagara family for about 700 years--from the Kamakura period (1192-1333) to 1871, when the Meiji government abolished feudal domains and established the prefectural system.

Surrounded by steep mountains, the area, located in the Hitoyoshi Basin, was difficult to access until connected with the outside world by rail and road. This is perhaps why the area frequently was described as an "landlocked island."

At that time, the Kumagawa river, which runs through the area, was the main access route for local people. Feudal lords reportedly sailed down the river when they made their compulsory trips to Edo, called sankin kotai, to attend the shogunate court in alternate years during the Edo period (1603-1868). River boat rides are a popular tourist attraction today.

Ancient ruins dot Hitoyoshi and the city is home to many Buddhist temples, shrines and an old townscape--the legacy of the Sagara family.

The historical sites include Aoi Aso Shrine, dedicated to the tutelary deity for the family, and Ganjoji temple, where the graves of feudal lords are located. The presence of old samurai residences and repositories for soy sauce and miso paste also evoke the city's bygone days.

Hitoyoshi Castle was built near the river for protection. Its donjon was destroyed by fire, but some parts of the castle, mostly stone walls covered in moss, still stand. From this site, visitors can enjoy a panoramic view of the town, which spreads beyond the river.

On the riverbank, the castle's long enclosure and turrets have been restored. At nighttime, spotlights illuminate them beautifully. In winter, the castle's stone walls loom majestically as mist rises from the river.

The city also is known for its local liquor, Kuma shochu, which boasts a 700-year history. About 30 breweries produce the shochu, using water from the river and local rice.

For centuries, the river has brought bountiful blessings to the local people .